Ole!
A rainy, dank weekend escapade to Madrid. The only easy activity was to eat, and we indulged (Cochinillo asado, or roast suckling pig, at the Posada de la Villa, as an example in point). My husband’s hotel was very central and we walked everywhere, even when we could have taken the metro. The kids were pretty good sports, although my daughter had a meltdown in the Thyssen collection by the time we got to Mrs. Thyssen’s wing. Knowing that I will not go back anytime soon made me want to see what else I was missing – which is not the best way to proceed in a museum with children. If anyone else appreciates 20th century art, I would say do the whole museum in antichronological order. Which means go against the flow of arrows, and perhaps draw the ire of the guards or your fellow visitors. This travel piece captures the essence of the city as we tourists experienced it (and we didn’t experience anything after midnight); not much has changed in 14 years.
As impressive as Madrid was, I must say that I was not actually enchanted. The weather certainly had much to do with it; we walked in the Retiro on Sunday morning and found it to be exactly the same dreary, muddy stroll that a similar walk in the Bois de Boulogne can be. For some reason, I was particularly preoccupied with the idea that the riches accumulated by the royal power in this country had been in part distributed among its former Muslin and Jewish inhabitants, and for every show of architectural pomp, there was a little afterthought which troubled full appreciation. I have too much imagination.
The Plaza Mayor was full of stands selling figurines for creches, and the Madrilenes were out in force even in the rain, with wigs, reindeer hats, fake eyelashes and bullhorns, to mull aimlessly around the Puerta del Sol neighborhood. My two major thoughts in the Plaza Mayor were to think of all the bovine and human blood that had been spilled inside those four walls, and of the modern possibilities for terrorist action. Major crowds of people, enclosed spaces, small children nearly getting trampled as it were (especially near the display at the El Cortes Ingles), reminded me incessantly that Madrid, like so many other major cities I’ve been in, was targeted not so long ago.
It’s always party time in Spain, it seems, and Saturday was no exception – it was the 30th anniversary of Spain’s constitution. We made way for the king’s escort. Sunday was open house for all national monuments – so the parliament was open, and quite a popular destination that we had to skirt once more – and the Prado was impracticable, even after 45 minutes’ wait. I was glad we had been to a fantastic museum the day before.
We took the subway to the airport and found it to be rapid, inexpensive and easy.
Not getting a lot of science done right yet. Off to rectify the situation.
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